Watching Octavio Becerra and his staff work on a busy Saturday night at his new restaurant, Palate, is like watching a live interactive theatrical extravaganza with the “audience” participation taken to an exponential level. As with any live performance, there is much prep before the show begins—rehearsals, test audiences, script revisions-- but none of the work shows on the faces of the talent as the “curtain goes up.” Octavio and his staff all look excited for whatever the night might bring, eager to present their newest work, and fully aware that the development of their craft is a process—a process they clearly enjoy. When the first patrons arrive, the marathon of effort, skill and artistry begins—with some pinch-hitting and compromise thrown into the challenge.
I have known Octavio Becerra for seven years. He personally cooked the two best meals of my life in a whirlwind of creative energy after a morning at his favorite outdoor markets. Friends pitched in, some of them chefs, some of them just eager for the privilege to participate. Privilege it is. Octavio’s home kitchen is his laboratory, his rehearsal space; it is where his art form is honed and where he stretches his wings and experiments. I think there is a strong connection between cooking and love. When a great chef has the opportunity to cook in a space he loves for people he loves, the cooking surpasses great and becomes divine. I have experienced that divine in Octavio’s home when he worked for other restaurateurs. But now Octavio has his own home, Palate, and if you go there, he will cook for you too.
On Saturday night he was on stage and we had an exquisite meal complimented by some of the select wines he sells in the wine shop and tasting room adjacent to his gorgeous new venue that is a perfect marriage of classic French and modern California décor. We started dinner with a fine rosé, 2007 Chateau Mourgues du Gres Rosé Fleur d’Eglantine and some delicately home churned butter which was presented to the table with tiny shaved radishes and is a work of art.
A plate of charcuterie followed, along with some pickled fruits that were divine, and a fabulous little pot of chicken pate which my seven-year-old son, Jesse, adored. This course was accompanied by a 2004 Chateau Grillet, rich and mouthfilling but with good cut.
We tasted their 2002 Javillier Savigny-les-Beaunes Montchenevoy, a light, lemony Chardonnay and could not stop ourselves (heresy at this point in our meal!) from trying the gorgeous selection of cheeses from their dedicated cheese cellar.
Waiting for the main course to come, we tried the excellent 2006 Cross Oakville Cab, a tannic monster reminiscent of the early 80’s cabs.
I haven’t had a good rabbit dish since I spent the summer of 1976 in St. Amant Tallende, but Palate’s DG (Devils Gulch) Rabbit with stone ground grits and concord grapes was extraordinary both in flavor and in presentation. Like petite sculptures on the plate, each morcel was a discrete design. With the rabbit, Palate’s brilliant and kind wine director, Steve Goldun, poured a 2005 Thevenin Beaune 1er Cru Cent Vignes. Value Burgundy with hints of roasted strawberry.
My husband had the Risotto Special, with,dungeness crab and tiger tomatoes. A big fan of risotto, Randy was enchanted by the subtlety of a dish that can be heavy and monotonous in the hands of a less experienced kitchen. But the highlight of the meal was the Asparagus with duck egg, and lemon - brown butter which blew us away and which I have since had dreams about. And also the Vegetables in Papillote which was clean and simple but magnificent.
Stuffed, we still managed to devour the dessert, Valrohna Chocolate Pudding, served in a cup with a dollop of whip cream on top sprinkled with fleur de sel. And our final glass of the evening: 2006 Schoffit Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Harth Cuvée Caroline which was fruity and flinty.
The miracle of Palate is that anyone can now enjoy the cooking and love that is the artistry of Octavio Becerra and his team. But I suggest you hustle over there because when the word gets it, it is going to be mighty hard to get a table.