As you drive around Sonoma County in early spring, you can feel something eminent brewing. Tulips and cherry blossoms have already popped and baby lamb are bounding about in the roadside fields. The wineries and the farmers are racing to whip their vineyards, fields, and orchards into shape. Everyone’s focus is geared on the start of the agricultural year, pruning and planning. It is truly special to witness the anticipation of the bounty and harvest to come. Spring lamb symbolizes all this for us. We have a favorite local rancher BRUCE CAMPBELL of CK LAMB, 707.431.8161, who raises his lamb to anywhere from a few weeks to a few months per the chef’s request, versus at least 6 months for most commercially raised lamb. We tell folks if you think you don’t like lamb, you haven’t really had it before, because this experience is so totally different.
We plant our favas (also known as broad beans) in January and harvest them in April and May.In other places, their season is later. They are the first main crop to come in from the garden in the spring. Having had enough of winter squashes and braised meats for a while, our cooks eagerly await favas, green garlic, asparagus and artichokes to play with on our menu. We plop our girls down in the middle of the rows with a bucket and we can’t even see them because the favas are so high. They eat about 50% of them raw before they even make it into the bucket. I’m not so bummed about this loss, as it’s a good thing for them to eat. We even use the fava leaves and their most beautiful purple blossoms in the salad. In the fruit world, cherries and apricots are the first stone fruits to ripen, so they hold that same exalted place for chefs as an opening of the gate on seasons. It’s here! We are so lucky! Let’s eat!
Spring time and early summer also bring new wines to enjoy! Along with Spring seasonal vegetables, fruits and their complimentary proteins—lamb, halibut & grass fed beef; there are wonderful wines that compliment these foods. Although all wine varietals can be enjoyed any time of year, we love to highlight particular varietals that marry well with each selection of seasonal foods. (Duskie and I are big believers in eating what is in season!) Keeping this in mind, I've suggested a fun wine to pair with her lamb dish below as well as a tasty wine that mates well with the panzanella salad; and a fabu wine to compliment her yummy dessert. Let's drink!
anchovy rubbed LAMB TBONES + fava bean panzanella
serves 6
This rub can be used on any cut of lamb you prefer
2 lemons, zest and juice
1/4 cup fresh rosemary, chopped
1/4 cup fresh mint, chopped
5 garlic cloves, peeled
5 anchovy fillets
a pinch of chili flakes
2 tablespoons olive oil
12 lamb Tbones
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Fire up the grill. In a food processor, pulse the zest and lemon juice, with the herbs, garlic, anchovy, chili flakes, and 2 tablespoons of the oil. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and rub with anchovy mixture and grill to desired doneness about 4 minutes per side. Lean up against a mound of fava bean panzanella!
WINE PAIRING:
2003 Hawley, Merlot, Dry Creek Valley- The deep, dark, garnet color of this wine with its intense fruit flavors is a hallmark of John Hawley's estate Merlot. Grown on the Bradford Mountain in the Dry Creek Valley appellation of Sonoma County; this wine is the perfect compliment to Duskie's Lamb T-Bones! Rich aromas of black cherries, currants and dark chocolate melt into opulent, layered, flavors of black cherry, blackberry, earth, plums and a hint of oak spice. The lingering finish is laced with tannins and elegance. I am a true believer in decanting wines—both white and red wines. This Merlot opens up beautifully and softens the tannins by decanting it. Note: you need not worry about an expensive crystal decanter our parents used to use....there are many options for you now in the world of wine vessels. Both fancy and simple. The idea is to allow the wine to breath and open to the best of its ability. Because this wine is young, you are not necessarily worried about a lot of sediment, so the duty of decanting by slowly pouring the wine into the decanter by candlelight doesn't really apply here. Instead, carefully pour the wine into your decanter of choice & let it breath while you're preparing and grilling the lamb, then enjoy! I decanted this wine about an hour before I tasted it and it had beautifully opened up. John Hawley and his sons, Paul & Austin, are making awesome wines! And, they're a lot of fun to hang out with. Their family estate is truly environmentally minded. They operate sustainably all the way around... and have about ten acres of certified organic vineyards. I encourage you to give them a call when you're in the area and visit their winery. www.hawleywine.com
for the panzanella:
At ZAZU restaurant + farm, we all love our grilled della fattoria bread, but if you prefer not to fire up the grill, the bread can be toasted in a toaster or broiler. We are lucky - we have lemon thyme in our garden out back, but regular fresh thyme is easily substituted and more available.
1/3 cup double shucked fava beans
2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1/4 teaspoon fresh minced lemon thyme
1/4 cup quality olive oil
6 x 3/4 inch thick slices of rustic bread
1 bunch arugula, washed and dried
15 mint leaves, picked and hand torn into a few pieces per leaf
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 ounces local goat cheese
Fire up the grill. To make the vinaigrette, in a small bowl combine the lemon juice, shallots, and lemon thyme. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Brush the bread with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill the bread to mark it on both sides, about a minute per side (depending on the heat of your grill). Dice into 3/4 inch cubes. In a bowl, toss together the fava beans, bread cubes, arugula, mint, and vinaigrette. Place a mound of the salad on each plate. Garnish with the goat cheese.
WINE PAIRING:
2006 Marimar Estate,Chardonnay, Don Miguel Vineyard, Russian River Valley- Fresh aromas of citrus and tropical fruit dive right into flavors of meyer lemon zest, fresh pears, minerals, creamy hazelnuts and spice. The finish has a sexy texture and lingers for another taste.... I love the flavors and texture of this wine together with the mix of ingredients Duskie highlights with the gorgeous Panzanella. Marimar Torres exemplifies terroir driven wines and is a true steward of the land in which they are grown. On a beautiful late Spring and/or Summer afternoon, I enjoy making Duskie's Panzanella and having a glass of Marimar's Estate Chardonnay from her Don Miguel Vineyard! Tasty! www.marimarestate.com
CORN CREPES + mascarpone & balsamic cherries
serves 6
For the sweetened mascarpone:
8 ounces mascarpone
3 tablespoons powdered sugar
1 tablespoon lemon zest
For the balsamic cherries:
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup red wine
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1 pound bing cherries, cut in 1/2 and pitted
For the crepes:
2 eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons cornmeal
a pinch kosher salt
nonstick spray
To make the sweetened mascarpone, in a small bowl combine the mascarpone, sugar and lemon zest.
To make the cherries, in a small sauce pan on medium high heat combine the sugar, balsamic, red wine, , and vanilla bean. Let simmer about 15 minutes until thickened like maple syrup. Cool. Toss on the pitted cherries.
To make the crepes, combine the eggs, milk, flour, cornmeal, and salt in a blender. Let the batter sit overnight in the refrigerator. In a 10 inch nonstick pan coated with nonstick spray on medium heat, ladle 2 ounces of batter to form a crepe, tipping the pan around as needed. Cook until just done about 1 minute. Repeat until all batter is cooked. Spread sweetened mascaropone on one 1/2 of each crepe and fold into quarters. Top with a spoonful of balsamic cherries.
You can make the crepes ahead up to the fold point and refrigerate. Reheat before serving.
WINE PAIRING:
2005 Souverain, Dessert Syrah, Alexander Valley- Luring aromas of ripe cherries and spice bring you to layered flavors of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, vanilla and spice making this a lovely compliment to Duskie's corn crepes with balsamic cherries! The fruity-spicy-silky medium weight texture of this wine together in the mouth with this amazing dessert is what wine and food pairing is all about!
Cheers! www.souverain.com
Duskie Estes of ZAZU & BOVOLO restaurants + farm and ZIGGY, the wine gal