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FORK + CORK

duskieziggy


  • A tasty tomato treat, unbelievable bacon, and perfect pinot

    From Duskie.....


    Nepotism aside, my husband, John Stewart, makes the most incredible bacon I have ever had. To honor its spectacular nature, we throw a party all about it on Labor Day … the BLT + ice cream social!  We get a basket of the best ever bread from Della Fattoria in Petaluma, cook up about 75 pounds of our Black Pig bacon, make an array of spreads, and invite folks to BYO tomato, as it seems required in Sonoma County that everyone have a tomato plant out back. I’ve included recipes for our favorite spreads. Here is to bacon at it’s best!  You can find out about other awesome bacons (of course, you MUST have ours!) at The Grateful Palate. Read on to discover Ziggy's perfect wine for blt's!

    tabasco aioli
    1 whole egg
    1 egg yolk
    1/3 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice
    2 cloves garlic, peeled
    1 1/2 cups olive oil
    1 teaspoon tabasco, or more or less to taste
    kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

    In a food processor, combine the eggs, lemon juice, and garlic. With the motor running, slowly add the oil and emulsify. Season to taste with tabasco, salt, and pepper.

    green goddess
    2 tablespoons cold water
    3/4 cup canola oil
    1/2 bunch fresh chives
    1/2 bunch fresh basil leaves, picked
    1/2 bunch fresh tarragon leaves, picked
    1/2 bunch flat leaf parsley leaves, picked
    2 cloves garlic, peeled
    2 anchovies
    1 egg
    1/4 cup lemon juice
    1 avocado, seed removed and scooped out with a spoon
    1/2 cup sour cream
    kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

    In a blender, combine the water, oil and herbs and blend to make a green oil. In food processor, combine the garlic, anchovies, egg, and lemon juice. With the motor running, slowly add the green oil. Add the avocado and sour cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

    buttermilk dressing
    1 egg yolk
    1/3 cup red wine vinegar
    2/3 cup canola oil
    2/3 cup buttermilk
    2/3 cup sour cream
    1/4 cup minced herbs of your choice (parsley, chives, basil, mint, tarragon)
    2 tablespoons minced shallots
    kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

    In a food processor, combine the egg and vinegar. With the motor running, slowly add the oil. Add the buttermilk and the sour cream. Fold in the herbs and the shallots. Season to taste with the salt and pepper.

    From Ziggy.....

    Juicy tomatoes and beautiful bacon make the perfect combination that calls for Pinot Noir! California grows some amazing tomatoes! California is also home to some of the best Pinot Noir! Here is my perfect Pinot pick for Duskie's blt:

    2006 Buena Vista, Pinot Noir, Carneros-- This amazing wine comes from perhaps the oldest winery in California. Buena Vista was established in 1857. The winery and its vineyards are located in the cool climate Carneros wine appellation. This appellation sits at the base of both Napa and Sonoma counties. Buena Vista's Pinot Noir vineyards are on the Sonoma side of theCarneros area. I found aromas of strawberry, bright cherry, earth and spice. These lured me into flavors of cranberry, dark cherry, tobacco and a hint of spice. The brilliant acidity in this well balanced wine makes it fab with food! Especially Duskie's blt! You must come and visit the Carneros appellation and discover some terrific wines. Make sure to plan a visit to the historic Buena Vista Winery. Their winemaker Jeff Stewart is making great wines. Be sure and taste their Chardonnay and Syrah too.

    Enjoy...and Cheers!

    Ziggy, The Wine Gal

  • STAYCATION

    I have discovered some cool places this summer… as summer is our busiest time in the restaurant and on the farm, I need to stay close while finding exciting adventures for my girls.

    Our family rented a house on Stinson Beach on the lagoon side. It amazed me how relaxed I could get so close to home. There were so many fun activities for the girls. The house was stocked with boogy boards, sea kayaks, a canoe, and even a rowing shell. There was a little beach on a canal full of tiny crabs for them to catch and release for hours of excited screams. The seals abounded in the lagoon and would swim to greet us while we were kayaking or to show off as the sun was setting while we were sharing our plum basil margaritas on our own private sand box beach. There is nothing like the feeling of sun warmed sand through the toes! I highly recommend a get away! Some recipes from our meals are below. www.seadriftrealty.com

    We decided to adventure to Alcatraz, the mysterious island my girls have only seen out of the window anytime we drive over the bridge. Mackenzie, our 5 year old, was a little apprehensive thinking it was haunted. After growing up in San Francisco, and knowing the coldest summer anyone ever had was in San Francisco, I came prepared. I had little down blankets for the girls, ski caps, winter coats. I forgot August and September are the best in San Francisco. The sun was beaming … it was a gorgeous clear day. The ferry ride over was a short 10 minutes or so. We watched a few videos on the history of Alcatraz. I was intrigued by the era of Indian occupation. My daughters were riveted by the escape attempts story tour. We followed the docent around like a favorite puppy lapping up the wild stories. You can catch the ferry back whenever suits you. “Mommy, I loved Alcatraz! It was so interesting. Can we go back everyday?”

    And then if you are hungry, which we were, you are so close to so much food adventure. Closest is the trusty Fog City Diner. Milkshake anyone? But still close enough for a good walk, the Ferry Terminal has so much to choose from. Or if you want to hop in your car, Yank Sing for Deem Sum on Spear or Stevenson is a true San Francisco experience. Or Sunday brunch at Greens in the Marina is the most beautiful view in the city! Or if you want to check out 2 new spots, Epic Roasthouse and the Waterbar have amazing outdoor seating. Or Boulevard is everybody’s long time favorite restaurant! Do you have more room?! www.alcatrazcruises.com

    Next up, we are headed out to point reyes for a hike out to chimney rock (www.nps.gov/pore/) and to bodega bay for a horseback ride (www.chanslor.com/).

    santa rosa PLUM + backyard BASIL MARGARITAS
    serves 4
    8 plums, pitted, pureed in a blender
    1 1/2  cups fresh line juice
    1 1/2  cups quality tequila
    1/2 cup triple sec
    1/2 cup picked basil leaves
    ice

    Shake it up with ice and serve over ice. Yum!

    “down the road” PEACH+blackberry COBBLER
    serves 8
    for the topper:
    3/4 cup flour
    1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
    1/4 cup cornmeal
    2 tablespoons sugar
    pinch of kosher salt
    1 – 2 tablespoons ice water

    6 medium peaches, pitted, and cut into 3/4 inch thick wedges
    2 cups blackberries
    3/4 cup sugar
    2 tablespoons cornstarch
    1 tablespoon fresh ginger, peeled and grated
    1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice

    1 egg yolk for brushing
    sugar for sprinkling

    Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a food processor, pulse the flour, butter, cornmeal, sugar, and salt until the mixture resembles COARSE meal. Remove the mixture to a bowl and add the ice water with a wooden spoon. Stir until just combined. Roll out the dough to 1/2 inch thick and cut in desired shapes (its fun to use cookie cutters with kids). Refrigerate at least 1/2 hour. In a large bowl, toss the peaches, blackberries, sugar, cornstarch, ginger, and lemon. Pour the fruit into a baking dish. Arrange the dough shapes on top of the fruit. Brush the dough with the yolk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until top is golden, about 30 minutes. Serve warm with ice cream on top. Enjoy!

    ~ Duskie Estes
    co-chef proprietor ZAZU & BOVOLO restaurants + farm

  • spring lamb

    As you drive around Sonoma County in early spring, you can feel something eminent brewing. Tulips and cherry blossoms have already popped and baby lamb are bounding about in the roadside fields. The wineries and the farmers are racing to whip their vineyards, fields, and orchards into shape. Everyone’s focus is geared on the start of the agricultural year, pruning and planning. It is truly special to witness the anticipation of the bounty and harvest to come. Spring lamb symbolizes all this for us. We have a favorite local rancher BRUCE CAMPBELL of CK LAMB, 707.431.8161, who raises his lamb to anywhere from a few weeks to a few months per the chef’s request, versus at least 6 months for most commercially raised lamb. We tell folks if you think you don’t like lamb, you haven’t really had it before, because this experience is so totally different.

     

    We plant our favas (also known as broad beans) in January and harvest them in April and May.In other places, their season is later. They are the first main crop to come in from the garden in the spring. Having had enough of winter squashes and braised meats for a while, our cooks eagerly await favas, green garlic, asparagus and artichokes to play with on our menu. We plop our girls down in the middle of the rows with a bucket and we can’t even see them because the favas are so high. They eat about 50% of them raw before they even make it into the bucket. I’m not so bummed about this loss, as it’s a good thing for them to eat. We even use the fava leaves and their most beautiful purple blossoms in the salad. In the fruit world, cherries and apricots are the first stone fruits to ripen, so they hold that same exalted place for chefs as an opening of the gate on seasons. It’s here! We are so lucky! Let’s eat!

     

    Spring time and early summer also bring new wines to enjoy! Along with Spring seasonal vegetables, fruits and their complimentary proteins—lamb, halibut & grass fed beef; there are wonderful wines that compliment these foods. Although all wine varietals can be enjoyed any time of year, we love to highlight particular varietals that marry well with each selection of seasonal foods. (Duskie and I are big believers in eating what is in season!) Keeping this in mind, I've suggested a fun wine to pair with her lamb dish below as well as a tasty wine that mates well with the  panzanella salad; and a fabu wine to compliment her yummy dessert. Let's drink!

     

    anchovy rubbed LAMB TBONES + fava bean panzanella
    serves 6
    This rub can be used on any cut of lamb you prefer
     

    2 lemons, zest and juice  
    1/4 cup fresh rosemary, chopped
    1/4 cup fresh mint, chopped  
    5 garlic cloves, peeled
    5 anchovy fillets   
    a pinch of chili flakes
    2 tablespoons olive oil   
    12 lamb Tbones
    kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

     

    Fire up the grill. In a food processor, pulse the zest and lemon juice, with the herbs, garlic, anchovy, chili flakes, and 2 tablespoons of the oil. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and rub with anchovy mixture and grill to desired doneness about 4 minutes per side. Lean up against a mound of fava bean panzanella!

    WINE PAIRING:
    2003 Hawley, Merlot, Dry Creek Valley-  The deep, dark, garnet color of this wine with its intense fruit flavors is a hallmark of John Hawley's estate Merlot. Grown on the Bradford Mountain in the Dry Creek Valley appellation of Sonoma County; this wine is the perfect compliment to Duskie's Lamb T-Bones! Rich aromas of black cherries, currants and dark chocolate melt into opulent, layered, flavors of black cherry, blackberry, earth, plums and a hint of oak spice. The lingering finish is laced with tannins and elegance. I am a true believer in decanting wines—both white and red wines. This Merlot opens up beautifully and softens the tannins by decanting it. Note: you need not worry about an expensive crystal decanter our parents used to use....there are many options for you now in the world of wine vessels. Both fancy and simple. The idea is to allow the wine to breath and open to the best of its ability. Because this wine is young, you are not necessarily worried about a lot of sediment, so the duty of decanting by slowly pouring the wine into the decanter by candlelight doesn't really apply here. Instead, carefully pour the wine into your decanter of choice & let it breath while you're preparing and grilling the lamb, then enjoy! I decanted this wine about an hour before I tasted it and it had beautifully opened up. John Hawley and his sons, Paul & Austin, are making  awesome wines! And, they're a lot of fun to hang out with. Their family estate is truly environmentally minded. They operate sustainably all the way around... and have about ten acres of certified organic vineyards. I encourage you to give them a call when you're in the area and visit their winery.  www.hawleywine.com

     

    for the panzanella:
    At ZAZU restaurant + farm, we all love our grilled della fattoria bread, but if you prefer not to fire up the grill, the bread can be toasted in a toaster or broiler.  We are lucky - we have lemon thyme in our garden out back, but regular fresh thyme is easily substituted and more available.

     

    1/3 cup double shucked fava beans
     2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice
    1 shallot, peeled and minced
    1/4 teaspoon fresh minced lemon thyme
    1/4 cup quality olive oil
    6 x 3/4 inch thick slices of rustic bread
    1 bunch arugula, washed and dried
    15 mint leaves, picked and hand torn into a few pieces per leaf
    kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
    8 ounces local goat cheese

     

    Fire up the grill. To make the vinaigrette, in a small bowl combine the lemon juice, shallots, and lemon thyme. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Brush the bread with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Grill the bread to mark it on both sides, about a minute per side (depending on the heat of your grill).  Dice into 3/4 inch cubes. In a bowl, toss together the fava beans, bread cubes, arugula, mint, and vinaigrette. Place a mound of the salad on each plate. Garnish with the goat cheese.

     

    WINE PAIRING:
    2006 Marimar Estate,Chardonnay, Don Miguel Vineyard, Russian River Valley- Fresh aromas of citrus and tropical fruit dive right into flavors of meyer lemon zest, fresh pears, minerals, creamy hazelnuts and spice. The finish has a sexy texture and lingers for another taste.... I love the flavors and texture of this wine together with the mix of ingredients Duskie highlights with the gorgeous Panzanella. Marimar Torres exemplifies terroir driven wines and is a true steward of the land in which they are grown. On a beautiful late Spring and/or Summer afternoon, I enjoy making Duskie's Panzanella and having a glass of Marimar's Estate Chardonnay from her Don Miguel Vineyard! Tasty! www.marimarestate.com

     

    CORN CREPES + mascarpone & balsamic cherries
    serves 6

    For the sweetened mascarpone:
    8 ounces mascarpone
    3 tablespoons powdered sugar
    1 tablespoon lemon zest

     

    For the balsamic cherries:
    1/2 cup sugar
    1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
    1/4 cup red wine
    1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
    1 pound bing cherries, cut in 1/2 and pitted

     

    For the crepes:
    2 eggs
    1 cup milk
    1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour
    2 tablespoons cornmeal
    a pinch kosher salt
    nonstick spray

     

    To make the sweetened mascarpone, in a small bowl combine the mascarpone, sugar and lemon zest.

     

    To make the cherries, in a small sauce pan on medium high heat combine the sugar, balsamic, red wine, , and vanilla bean. Let simmer about 15 minutes until thickened like maple syrup. Cool. Toss on the pitted cherries.

     

    To make the crepes, combine the eggs, milk, flour, cornmeal, and salt in a blender. Let the batter sit overnight in the refrigerator. In a 10 inch nonstick pan coated with nonstick spray on medium heat, ladle 2 ounces of batter to form a crepe, tipping the pan around as needed. Cook until just done about 1 minute. Repeat until all batter is cooked. Spread sweetened mascaropone on one 1/2 of each crepe and fold into quarters. Top with a spoonful of balsamic cherries.

     

    You can make the crepes ahead up to the fold point and refrigerate. Reheat before serving.

     

    WINE PAIRING:
    2005 Souverain, Dessert Syrah, Alexander Valley- Luring aromas of ripe cherries and spice bring you to layered flavors of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, vanilla and spice making this a lovely compliment to Duskie's corn crepes with balsamic cherries! The fruity-spicy-silky medium weight texture of this wine together in the mouth with this amazing dessert is what wine and food pairing is all about!

     

    Cheers! www.souverain.com

     

    Duskie Estes of ZAZU & BOVOLO restaurants + farm and ZIGGY, the wine gal

  • Pork & Pinot

    From Duskie.... I just went somewhere in California I adored: Yosemite! I had not been there since I was 16 to climb half dome with some of my high school buddies. That was a summer trip of teenagers. I remembered being scared, us being full of drama and hormones, and the dichotomy of the intense natural creation amidst buses and bodies. Odd. In the winter, twenty plus years later, Yosemite took me! I feel no words justly describe or honor what that place feels like. I could say AWEsome, AMAZing, WONDERous. It’s not enough. It’s not enough to say it took my breath away, but it absolutely did. The ever whiteness of the snow cover makes the trees, mountains, and all you can see just perfect. We went to cook a dinner and offer a cooking class at the Ahwahnee about our favorite thing, the pig. They offer winter series of classes and dinners in January and February. Each series starts off with a “Meet the Chefs” reception. I wasn’t quite sure what we were getting ourselves into and it ended up being one of my favorite moments of the weekend… a chance for the attendees to meet us and the other chefs (Percy Whatley of the Ahwahnee, Mark Estee of Moody’s Bistro, Georgeanne Brennan, an award winning author, and Bill LeBlond from Chronicle Books), mingle, ask questions, and chat. In between our prep days in the kitchen, we snuck out for a snowshoe trek with our 5 and 6 year olds, a few spins and twirls around their outdoor ice skating rink, and to make a gathering of “snow pigs” (winter sports available through mid-march). We are definitely sure to go back again and again for winter. This is a special place. Head out! Here is a recipe and wine pairing with none other than our dear friend, the pig (see recipe below) …

    From Ziggy... While Duskie headed South towards Yosemite, I actually ventured North to Mendocino! My mission is to catch the tail end of the Mendocino Crab & Wine Days events as well as to enjoy the 3rd annual International Alsace Varietals Wine Festival. To me, one of the most beautiful drives in California you can experience is the road to Mendocino. As you cruise up Hwy 101 through glorious Sonoma County--passing picturesque vineyards and old barns, it sets the mood for your turn onto Hwy 128.... the tempo quickly slows from 65 mph to a leisurely 35-40 mph; at which point you're saying, 'oohhh, aahhh' at every winding curve - - - the impulse to stop and take a picture is ever present the entire drive. My first stop -mandatory on every trip to Mendocino- is in Boonville. This cute, very small town (pop. 700) is home to the Mendocino County Fairgrounds, the FABulous Boonville Hotel (great hotel and restaurant), Anderson Valley Brewery, Mosswood Market & Cafe, Stella Cadente Olive Oil Bar, Claudia Springs Winery & Raye's Hill Winery tasting rooms as well as a few cute shops. I pull into Mosswood Cafe to enjoy a bite of lunch. Everything on the menu is made from scratch, using only fresh local ingredients. I enjoy a beautiful sandwich of seasonal roasted vegetables & local goat cheese along with a lovely glass of local wine. I then take a couple of minutes to stretch my legs and wonder through a few stores and fun boutiques for a little retail therapy. Before too long, I'm back in the car continuing on Hwy 128 entering the Anderson Valley. This incredible wine appellation is known for producing world class Pinot Noir as well as amazing aromatic white wines, like; Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc & Muscat. The 3rd Annual International Alsace Varietals festival takes place here in a few days....first, I'm heading out to the Mendocino coast to enjoy the annual Crab and Wine days, as well as to try and catch a glimpse of some migrating whales.

    Every season is great for visiting Mendocino. But now, winter time, everything here seems perfect! I've arrived just in time to enjoy the 'Crab Cake Cookoff'. This fun annual event takes place under a large white tent at Mendocino's Noyo Harbor on waters edge. Noyo Harbor is a quaint little area/village where the fisherman depart and return bringing their catch. All the chef's arrive and prepare their version of fresh crab cakes in hopes of winning top prize. Several different wineries from Mendocino set up their wines to taste in between each of the chef's. This unique event allows you to taste excellent wines along with delicious hand crafted crab cakes. With my fill of wonderful wines and scrumptious crab cakes, I head to Glass Beach to take a stroll and look for whales. While the wind is chilly, the skies are blue and it's a great winter walk on the beach.....what a fabu way to enjoy a day. I must now get checked into my hotel before I head to my favorite Bistro for a crab themed dinner. Mendocino Coast has some fantastic places to stay. The historic Little River Inn,  The Brewery Gulch Inn,  & The Mendocino Hotel are my favorites.

    Just north of the village of Mendocino is a town called Fort Bragg. Fort Bragg is home to my favorite dining spot, Mendo Bistro! Chef/Owner Nicholas Petti has a wonderfully creative menu with a focus on local ingredients-- fish, meats, produce, cheese and wine. Nicholas and his beautiful wife Jaimi are the kind of folks you just want to hang out with. Hip, fun and real! They have done a fantastic job at creating this groovy bistro. The atmosphere is comfortable, spacious and casual with an upscale twist. I enjoy another awesome Mendo Bistro dinner ; award winning crab cakes, sauteed black cod with rock shrimp ravioli and spinach pesto. For dessert, their famous candy cap crème brulee is outstanding. (candy cap is a type of mushroom that tastes just like maple syrup). I am now eager for a good night's sleep, dreaming only of my exciting ventures the following day. No trip to the Mendocino Coast is complete without a visit  to the historic Little River Inn for breakfast. Of course, like many of the places here this time of year, they have several seasonal fresh crab items on their menu. The Crab Cake Benedict at Little River Inn is a classic! With a view of the ocean, incredible food & great service, it's a fab start to my day. Actually, it is also the perfect place to end your day too... as their bar, “Ole's Whale Watch Bar” (named after the Inn's founder) has billion dollar views of the ocean. Legendary bartender, Sue Bondoux, makes you feel right at home—where you can enjoy a casual dinner and drinks (note: they have a great selection of local wines by the glass) or you can venture back to their all star dining experience with Chef Marc Dym. Of note, the wine list here is one of the BEST you will find! .... wtg, John Sverko... A great trip to the Mendocino Coast...and yes, I did see whales-- 4 of them, playing in the sea near Fort Bragg.

    It's now time to head to the 3rd Annual International Alsace Varietals Festival. This annual event is held at the Mendocino Fairgrounds in Boonville. This year, 35 wineries participate. While there are a number of wineries participating from Mendocino's Anderson Valley, there are also wineries from several other spectacular California appellation's, Texas, New Zealand, Oregon, Michigan, France and Germany. Traditional Alsace fare is made by local restaurant's and caterers. The food is fantastic and the wines are amazing. It's always such a treat to have the winemaker present to talk about the vineyards and winemaking! It helps to paint the canvas creating the picture of where the wines come from. To be honest, I am missing Duskie right about now, as there are so many great pork based dishes and incredible Riesling's (Duskie's favorite varietal). She would absolutely love it! And, for me? Nothing is better than a perfect piece of pork and a glass of Pinot Blanc followed by a glass of Pinot Noir! Brings me right back to Alsace....

    I enjoy my drive back through the scenic Hwy 128 and daydream about my return to beautiful mesmerizing Mendocino.
    Cheers! - Ziggy, The Wine Gal
     
    RECIPES

    apricot, bourbon, and vanilla braised pork shank
    serves 4 – 8 people

    4 pork shanks, (ask your butcher to cut these “osso bucco style”)
    1 cup bourbon
    1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
    1/4 cup molasses
    1 teaspoon ground allspice
    a healthy pinch of chili flakes
    2 tablespoons olive oil
    3 carrots, peeled and rough chop
    3 ribs celery, rough chop
    2 onions, julienned
    1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and grated
    2 1/2 cups chicken stock
    1 1/2 cups brown sugar
    1 cup dried apricots
    2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise and scraped
    kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

    to make the marinade, combine the bourbon, vinegar, molasses, allspice, and chili flakes. Marinate the shanks over night in the refrigerator. Remove the shanks and reserve marinade. preheat the oven to 350°. Pat the shanks dry and season with salt and pepper. Sear in large sauté pan on medium high heat until browned on all sides, about 10 – 15 minutes. Transfer to a roasting pan. Add the reserved marinade, stock, brown sugar, apricots, and vanilla pods and seeds. In a large sauté pan with oil on medium high heat, saute the carrot, celery, onion, and ginger until browning and aromatic, about 5 minutes. Add to the shanks. Cover with foil and braise until the meat begins to fall from the bone, about 3 hours. Remove the shanks and strain the braising liquid and reduce by half in a saucepan on medium high heat, occasionally skimming to remove the fat. Return the solids to the sauce and puree with an immersion blender (or in a blender). Meanwhile, peel the outer skin from the shanks with a pair of tongs. Adjust seasoning of the sauce to your taste (with salt, chili flakes, vinegar, and brown sugar). Serve with mashed potatoes!

    WINE PAIRINGS
    2006 GIRASOLE, PINOT BLANC, MENDOCINO
    Aroma's of leechee nuts, apricots and spice bring you at medium to full bodied flavors of red apples, pears, vanilla, citrus and a hint of young apricot. The texture is velvety and the finish is long and lingering. This is one of my favorite white wines so far this year. Very limited production and VERY affordable. The grapes are grown organically by Charlie Barra of Girasole Vineyards, one of my most admired Mendocino winegrowers. Charlie has just finished his 62nd harvest! He has farmed every one of those organically. One my favorite quotes from Charlie is "I've been farming Organically for 62 years......the first 40 I didn't even know it!" 

    2005 TOULOUSE ESTATE, PINOT NOIR, ANDERSON VALLEY-
    Beautiful garnet in color. Seductive aromas of cherry, spice, framboise and violets fill the glass and draw you to flavors of earth laced red fruits, tea leaves, plum and spice. WOW is this nice! A terrific food wine. Toulouse Vineyards is quite small, growing only about 50 tons of grapes total. (1 ton of grapes = @ 2 1Ž2 barrels of wine) I fell in love with their wines the moment I tried them. Owner/Winemaker Vern Boltz is a retired firefighter and is really creating some beautiful limited production wines as well as a cult name with this vineyard.

     
  • Sonoma duck

    For our first edition, Ziggy and I wanted to bring on 2008 with Sonoma County Duck, Honey, Syrah and Bubbles! We are so lucky to live in California where everything grows. It allows us to live with a low carbon foot print (in terms of food transportation) and to play with a food product that is hours out of the ground. When food is fresher, it tastes more alive and when it is picked ripe, as opposed to early for travel, it explodes with its flavor. Wherever you are, focus on your neighbor and your local economy and come out to see us so we can show you what we are all about! Duskie has included recipes below you can make at home in case you cannot make it to ZAZU RESTAURANT + FARM. The recipes are set up in such a way that you can do most of the work a day ahead so you can actually enjoy the party! For the duck, you could also prepare it as a simple roasted duck sprinkled with the 5 spice if you don't want to make the confit. Lucky for us, huckleberries grow wild in bushes along the coastal streams and rivers of Mendocino (they should be available frozen from a specialty store or you could substitute cranberries with a little bit more sugar). Come for a hike and a gathering! Now, wine.....California has so many diverse wine growing areas. We call these appellations – specific wine growing area's that have unique soils and climates. Northern, Central and Southern California have fantastic wineries and grow an amazing array of different varietals (grape types). Like our recipes featured, our wines also come from Sonoma County. Specifically the Russian River and Green Valley appellations. Here's the scoop on the food producers and wineries we're talking about for the New Year.
    Cheers! Duskie and Ziggy

    -PURVEYORS-

    LIBERTY DUCKS ...
    Jim Reichardt is one of Sonoma County's most beloved producers. He is a fourth generation duck farmer. He raises Pekin duck to 9 weeks, as opposed to 6 for most commercial producers. This is what makes his duck larger, meatier, and more flavorful. Sonoma County's temperate climate allows him to raise ducks year-round, on straw litter, in an open environment. His ducks are antibiotic and hormone free and are fed a diet of corn and other grains. For more information head to www.libertyducks.com

    BEARFOOT HONEY...
    Scott Nelson is our neighbor at zazu restaurant + farm. He is a third generation beekeeper devoted to producing raw honey that is chemical free. Raw honey is honey purely made by bees in the hive without adding heat, a practice that is commonly used with commercial honey. Raw honey is healthier, full of valuable enzymes, and simply tastes better. Their name reflects their guiding philosophy of leave nothing but footsteps, that is to walk softly on this earth. He is producing honey adhering to the Demeter standards of biodynamic farming.

    Imported honey cost around 80 cents a pound, a price a local producer cannot even break even on. 75% of the honey consumed in our country is imported. These are produced with pesticides and antibiotics. Scotts’ honeys are between $6 - $20 per pound and worth every bit of it.  The loss of bees in our country is of great concern to me. 70% of our food depends on pollination by bees. Scott lost 80% of his hives this year; he lost 79,000 bees over a three week period. Where did they all go? Some believe the bees are being killed off by our pesticide use. A reason to go organic as much as we can.

    The Sonoma County climate allows for a honey flow that never stops.  The diversity of agriculture in Sonoma County produces rock star honey. Scott moves his bees around to help our local farmers pollinate their crops. Whatever they pollinate produces a distinct flavor in the honey. And they really are different! In their under construction tasting room, I got to sample about 20 honeys, including lavender, blackberry, chestnut, spring wildflower, and apple blossom. I was amazed. The flavors are absolutely distinct. I am most excited about their chestnut honey. We are lucky enough to have a local chestnut farmer in Sebastopol and Scott takes his bees there to produce the only domestic chestnut honey. We have brought in the coveted chestnut honey from Italy for our cheese plates at the restaurant and now all we have to do is drive, or walk, down the road!  For more information, call 707.578.0797 or visit www.bearfoothoney.com.

    DAVIS FAMILY VINEYARDS...
    Davis Family Vineyards is located on a ridge top in the center of California's renowned Russian River Valley appellation. They have Zinfandel vines that were planted in 1896 and young hillside plantings of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay. Guy Davis makes only small lots of wine and literally handcrafts each and every one. His careful attention to his vineyards allows him to truly create each wine vintage by vintage in the vineyard. His winery tasting room showcases his wines, olive oil, artisan brandy and the Russian River it sits next to. It is the perfect place to visit-I highly recommend a stop here. They are right next to the river, have great wines, a fun picnic spot and bocce ball to boot!  http://davisfamilyvineyards.com/

    IRON HORSE VINEYARDS...
    Iron Horse Vineyards is smack dab in the middle of the Green Valley appellation. Green Valley is a unique wine growing region within Sonoma County's Russian River area. The Sterling family has been creating incredible wines at Iron Horse as long as I can remember. While known for their outstanding sparkling wines (which have been served in the White House numerous times) their still wines are fantastic. The view from their tasting room allows you to soak in not only incredible views of the vineyards but the beauty of its terror. And, well, it leaves you feeling bubbly.........   http://ironhorsevineyards.com

    A Recipe with Wine Pairing:

    DUCK, DUCK, HUCKLEBERRY
    serves 6

    6 duck ***, scored
    1 tablespoon Chinese 5 spice
    celery root gratin, recipe below
    greens of your choice (chard, kale, escarole, spinach) sautéed with minced shallots
    6 duck leg confit, recipe below
    huckleberry gastrique, recipe below
    kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

    Rub the skin of the breasts with the 5 spice and sprinkle both sides of the *** generously with salt and pepper. In a large oven proof, sauté pan on low medium heat, sear the skin side first until golden and rendered, about 5 minutes. Flip and brown the other side and cook to medium rare (or desired temperature). Let rest a few minutes before slicing. Meanwhile, warm the confit leg, gratin, and sauté your green. To plate, place the gratin in the center, top with greens, lean leg against gratin, slice the *** and fan out next to leg & gratin. Top with gastrique. Sit down with a glass of amazing Davis Family Vineyards Syrah from Sonoma County's Russian River Valley and savor!

    for the CONFIT...
    1/3 cup kosher salt
    1 teaspoon ground juniper berries
    1 teaspoon ground allspice
    1 teaspoon picked + chopped fresh thyme
    1 bay leaf, crumbled
    6 duck legs
    8 cups duck fat

    In a small bowl, combine salt + spices. Generously sprinkle over the legs + let sit in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Preheat the oven to 275. Pat the duck legs dry. In a large sauté pan, on medium high heat, sear the legs skin side down until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a baking dish + add duck fat to cover. Braise the legs in their own fat until they start to pull away from the bone, about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Cool in the fat. This can be made up to a few weeks in advance.

    for the CELERY ROOT GRATIN...
    4          russet potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/8th inch thick
    2          celery root, peeled and sliced 1/8th inch thick
    1 1/4  cup heavy cream
    1 1/4  cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
    kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

    Preheat the oven to 400. Spray a square baking dish w/ nonstick spray. Place a layer of potatoes on the bottom of the pan. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle about 1/4 cup of the cream and sprinkle about1/4 cup of the parmesan over the potatoes. Repeat the process with a layer of celery root (salt / pepper / cream / cheese). Repeat the process with a layer of potatoes. Repeat the process with a layer of celery root. Repeat the process with a layer of potatoes (top with salt / pepper / cream / cheese) Bake for 45 minutes 1 hour  uncovered until the potatoes are cooked through and the top is browned. This can be made a day ahead.

    for the HUCKLEBERRY GASTRIQUE ...
    3/4 cup red wine
    3/4 cup sugar
    1/4 cup huckleberries
    1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
    In a non-reactive sauce pot on medium high heat, simmer the wine & sugar until thickened to a syrup, about 10 minutes.  Add the huckleberries + vanilla. Season to taste w/ salt and pepper. This can be made a few weeks in advance.


    2005 DAVIS FAMILY VINEYARDS, SYRAH, GUYZER BLOCK, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
    Davis Family Vineyards has the distinction of hand crafting each wine they make. Guy's thumbprint is on everything......and this is why their wines are so amazing. Guy Davis planted the Chave Clone Syrah in this vineyard in 1996 and he follows the Cote Rotie tradition of fermenting the Syrah with about 2% Viognier grapes. The results are outstanding. Alluring aroma's of blackberries, black raspberry and spice send  you to flavors of white pepper laced blackberries, black tea, chocolate covered blueberries, spice and everything nice! The black fruit and spice components from this wine make it a perfect pairing with Duskie's Duck Duck Huckleberry.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    PISTACHIO + ORANGE FLOWER WATER BAKLAVA / HONEY GELATO
    for the BAKLAVA...
    1 pound unsalted butter, melted + clarified
    1 pound shelled pistachios
    3 cups sugar, divided
    1 pkg phyllo dough, defrosted
    2 teaspoons lemon juice
    2 teaspoons orange flower water

    Preheat the oven to 350. In a food processor, chop the nuts with 1 cup of the sugar.  In a rectangular baking dish, lay out the first sheet of phyllo and brush with clarified butter. Place your next sheet on top and brush with butter. Repeat until you have 15 sheets brushed with butter. Spread the nut/sugar mixture on top. Lay another piece of phyllo on top and brush with butter. Repeat this process until you have used up all your phyllo sheets. Cut a diagonal diamond pattern to your desired size. Bake until golden, about 45 minutes.  Meanwhile, in a small sauce pot combine the remaining 2 cups of sugar with 1 cup of water and bring to a simmer until thickened like syrup (reduced to about 3/4), about 10 minutes. Add the lemon juice and orange flower water. Pour your warm simple syrup over top of the pastry when it comes out of the oven.

    for the HONEY GELATO...
    2/3 cup sugar
    2 cups half and half
    12 yolks
    4 cups heavy cream
    2/3 cup honey

    To make the gelato, in a medium sauce pan on medium high heat, melt the sugar in the half and half. In a medium bowl, whisk the half and half into the yolks. Return the mixture to the sauce pan on low heat, stirring constantly. When the mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon remove from heat and strain into an ice bath. Add the cream. In another small pan on low heat, heat the honey just until liquid enough to pour into the cream mixture and combine. Once completely chilled, run through your ice cream machine according to its directions.

    ~WINE PAIRING~

    IRON HORSE VINEYARDS, “JOY!” SPARKLING WINE, SONOMA COUNTY-GREEN VALLEY
    JOY! is a new Sparkling Cuvée from Iron Horse, produced only in magnums and aged 10 to 15 years on the yeast in the bottle. It is a gorgeous combination of elegance, refinement and power. Joy! is "non-vintage" or "multi-vintage" in the sense of representing a range of years. Production is very limited. Scents of toast, apple, citrus and honey bring you to succulent flavors of apples, white fig, young pear, citrus and brioche. Absolutely fabu! This is a magical match when enjoyed with the baklava and gelato. The JOY! magnum makes for the perfect New Years celebration.

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